Reasonable condition but the leech is beginning to sag a little. This only really matters going upwind, and to counter that I reef a little early so that the leech can be tightened more. Fully battened. Slab reefing. 4 reef points. Plain slides with beefier slides at the battens. With an occasional squirt of sail slide lubricant, the main can be hauled down on any point of sail. 36.8 sq m.
Has advertising on it, so clearly it’s been bought second hand, ex-racing. It used to have a cone and cover with it, but this kept snagging and then split. I removed that and have ever since used the techniques described in this most excellent and free book and have never had a problem raising and lowering the spinnaker single handed. There’s also a spinnaker pole.
29 sq m. Light weight material. Has a couple of small patches to repair short tears but otherwise fine.
17 sq m. The lower panels are stretched a bit and it’s a bit stained from contact with mud from the anchor chain.
10.2 sq m Very good condition.
Bright orange. Perfect condition. Fits very nicely onto the detachable inner forestay I installed.
I’ve been very happy with the rig. I added a detachable inner forestay for the storm sail, and changed the slab reefing system so that the reefing lines are contained within the boom and it all works nicely.
The spinnaker is really excellent in flat water and a little off the wind. I’ve had 6-7 knots under spinnaker and main with not enough wind to break a ripple on the sea. It was so good coming back from the Azores in mostly very light wind that I even left it up overnight. There’s a video of it working on that trip .
However the spinnaker often needs a lot of attention if the wind isn’t steady, and dead downwind the speed varies so much that the sail will often fill and empty, or even backwind if there’s enough of a following swell. In those conditions, I use two foresails instead, hoisted on the same forestay. In fact, combining foresails proved so effective, I organised things so that any two foresails could be raised together to give this range of sail areas:
|Genoa + jib 1||57.80|
|Jib 1 + jib 2||26.95|
|Jib 2 + storm jib||15.40|
This arrangement I made easy by writing numbers beside each of the sail hanks with coloured marker pens. The numbers show the order the sail hanks need attaching to the forestay so that the luff of each sail can be pulled taut without the hanks of one sail interfering with the hanks of the other. To pull both headsails up evenly, I attach a block to the halyard and then use a short strop over the block to attach the head of each sail on either side of the block (I keep the block and strop handy in an anchor locker so it is quick to attach).
I sailed almost all the way from the Canaries to the Caribbean under this arrangement, and about 1/3 of the return journey.
This arrangement enables a great range of sail area without the weight and expense of roller reefing. I have used roller reefing on other boats, and while I appreciate the ease of use I found that a rolled up foresail performs really badly upwind. The ideal is I guess having two roller reefing headsails as racing boats do, but they’d have to be good quality (expensive) to be reliable and then there’s still the added weight aloft and it is still more complex than hanked on foresails.
A further benefit of the twin foresail arrangement with both sails attached to the same halyard is that if a squall comes, both sails can be dropped immediately from the cockpit by opening the halyard clutch. Both sails quickly drop onto the deck/net. I had very many squalls for the last 1000 miles of the first trans-Atlantic, and I got into the habit of leaving the storm jib up on the inner forestay and having twin headsails on the outer forestay. Dropping the twins left the storm jib to keep up speed and steerage in the squalls. When the squall had passed both headsails could easily be raised by hand, with winching only required for the last foot or so.
The inner forestay and the water stays I attached to provide the downward force are currently in storage - they weren’t need on my last rip through Brittany.
World wide chart coverage, AIS software, and software to run the charge controller. Power use can be throttled back - minimising it allows OpenCpn to run perfectly well.
Spare laptop with the same software set up. Switching from one to the other requires just swapping a USB plug from one computer to the other.
Long distance wifi antenna, enables internet in most anchorages.
VHF COBRA MR F55 EU
AIS Comar CSB200 - transmits and receives. No screen, integrated with OpenCpn.
Depth sounder: PCFF-80 fish finder - displays on the laptop, easily arranged to display both the OpenCpn screen and the depth sounder output. This is an expensive piece of kit - £500! - which I bought when I was running the boat as a commercial fishing boat. But it needs the laptop to run and I found it exasperating to set up. Setting it up once doesn't mean it will just work the next time. I gave up on it. I considered swapping it out for a bog standard depth sounder, but found I didn't miss it. I use charts and the GPS and tidal info to figure out routes in shallow water, and a leadline if I need to check a depth at an anchorage.
2 interchangeable VHF aerials, one at the top of the mast, one deck mounted.
2 battery banks, 2 x Trojan T-125 6v batteries, and a separate 12 sealed battery
2 solar panels, BP 380J, 80 watt with long low resistance leads allowing them to be placed anywhere on the boat and plugged in.
Morningstar Sunsaver Duo Charge Controller plus Meterbus (interface between controller and laptop that enables setting the voltage setpoints for the various charging phases, and gives a detailed view of the state of the batteries).
Pilot mini gas alarm
Jordan series drogue (unused)
Gale rider(?) drogue - like this
Mantus anchor (excellent!)
CQR 20 anchor
3 lengths of 10m chain, plus lots of anchor rope
Custom hypalon RIB - a couple of patches, but otherwise fine. 12 knots with a Tohatsu 6hp, up to a scary 25 knots with a 15 hp engine.
FM radio: Beat 185 MP3 USB/SD player
Bestek 300w inverter
Led lighting, including under lighting in kitchen
Thetford duplex oven/ grill
Whale foot pump in kitchen
Electric pump in bathroom
Rain water collection taps, one in the galley, one in the bathroom
Buckets, fenders, ropes
Morse controls (not connected to engines)
Aluminium mast with steps
2 x Harken 32 2 speed sheet winches
Harken 16 single speed winch (for reefing lines)
3 x portable water tanks, 25 litres
2 300 litres fibreglass tanks under beds, lined with epoxy paint designed specifically for potable water tanks (no nasty flavours!)
Drogue attachment plates
GPS via AIS or GPS dongle
200 metres of thin rope on a hose reel
2 camping gas bottles, two regulators
Removable water stays to counteract load of the inner forestay
Removable inner forestay! I no longer have this! In a giant clearout, it was removed from my possession! In fact, I usually sailed with the forestay unattached to the fitting on the catwalk to ease jib/genoa handling. Stroing it out of the way, in such a way that it didn't clang on the mast was a pin. I've long wished I had instead installed a Dyneema forestay to get around this problem. So, inner forestay needed, but the length is quite short and it isn't very expensive any more.
400,000 candle power signal lamp
Capstan HC 1200 hand bearing compass
Sony water resistant speakers XS-MP61MK2
Birch ply lined saloon ceiling with insulation
Solar panel connection sockets fore and aft
Some charts, many books, pilot guides etc